Embroidery puckering refers to the gathering or bunching of fabric near embroidery stitches and happens from the fabric moving around during embroidery. Puckering prevents the fabric from laying flat giving it a bumpy appearance.

Possible Causes:

• Under-Stabilized Fabric Or Wrong Choice Of Stabilizer:

The most common reason for puckering is inadequate stabilization, usually not enough or not the correct type of stabilizers. The more stretchy your fabric and dense your embroidery design – the more stabilization required. A common mistake is using the wrong type or weight of stabilizer. For example, using a light stabilizer on a heavy fabric won’t give enough support, leading to puckering. Always match your stabilizer to your fabric and design needs. Cut away backings are usually more stable and should be use with knits and other stretchy garments.

• Hooping Incorrectly

To achieve the best stabilization of your fabric, you should hoop your garment with the smallest hoop the design will fit in and make sure you are hooping your garment correctly. Even a woven fabric can be stretched. Take care not to stretch the fabric as it is placed in the hoop and do not pull the fabric once the hoop is tightened, this also created puckering after you remove the fabric from the hoop. Also if the outer ring is not tightened sufficiently, the stitches can pull the fabric inward. To further secure the fabric and stabilizer layers, use basting stitches or adhesive sprays, which help maintain their position and prevent movement during stitching.

• Thread Tensions Too Tight:

Overly tight thread and bobbin tension can create too much pull on the stitches causing distortion and puckering. The tension should be adjusted correctly to ensure that the thread is not too loose or too tight. A looser tension is suitable for lightweight fabrics, while a tighter tension is suitable for heavier fabrics.

• Dense Design

Over-stitching can cause puckering. It’s important to choose a design that is appropriate for the fabric and to use the correct density setting on the machine. Also check the underlay of the design, this is a key factor in puckering. If the design doesn’t have a good underlay it will pucker.

Key Tips To Prevent Puckering In Machine Embroidery:

1. Select The Right Stabilizer:

Match both the type (cutaway, tearaway, washaway) and weight of your stabilizer to the specific fabric and design. Proper stabilization is foundational.

2. Consider Spray Adhesive (Temporary):

For slippery or stretchy fabrics, a light application of temporary fabric spray adhesive provides extra grip, preventing unwanted shifting during stitching.

3. Hoop Correctly & Tightly:

Always use the smallest hoop that comfortably fits your design. Ensure the fabric and stabilizer are drum-tight within the hoop. This maximizes the hoop’s inherent stabilization near the design edges.

4. Optimize Design Density & Coverage:

• Choose designs with lower density, especially for lightweight or stretchy fabrics.

• Prefer open designs over large, solidly filled areas to minimize thread buildup and stress.

5. Ensure Proper Digitizing:

• Hire Expertise: If you lack digitizing experience, use a reputable digitizer and clearly specify your fabric type.

• Utilize Underlay: A well-digitized design includes appropriate underlay stitches to anchor the fabric and stabilize the area before the top stitches are applied.

6. Set Precise Thread Tensions:

• Use thread tension gauges to calibrate your machine settings based on the thread type.

• When adjusting tension, make only small, incremental changes at a time. Avoid drastic adjustments.